Tricky Train Travel

Ah, train travel: that relaxing, languid way to see a country, one that we particularly enjoy. Well, usually. But we’re not so sure this time. The sixteen-hour overnight journey from Almaty, Kazakhstan, to the capital city, Astana, presents a challenge. We have the top bunks in a four-berth cabin, turning our journey into more of an adventure than we had anticipated.

Almaty Train Station.

It’s dinner time when we board, too early to settle in for the night. We enjoy sandwiches we bought at the station, while our cabin mates enjoy homemade meals. They accept our offer of cookies and nuts and bestow us with chocolates. Miming drinking, they indicate that there’s water down the hall. We fill our bottles, returning as a porter enters to get our beds ready. 

Water is available in every car.

But there’s a problem. Noel’s long-injured shoulder makes climbing up the ladder with only his left arm a formidable feat, which he likens to mountain climbing without the safety ropes. Seeing his struggle, one of our cabin mates, a senior like us, comes to the rescue, holding the ladder and helping him ascend. Once we’re up, it’s comfortable, but with the climb comes the realization that it’s impossible to put the ladder in place or hold it in place from the top bunks. Pee breaks are inevitable. What will we do in the middle of the night, we wonder?

It's quite cozy once I'm up here.

Noel manages to keep his sense of humour.

We soon find out. As we shut off our lights, the same cabin mate points at himself and then the ladder, indicating he will get up and put it in place during the night. We breathe a sigh of relief. But this poor man doesn’t know what he’s in for. My nighttime forays to the bathroom are many.

True to his word, he jumps up out of a deep sleep and grabs the ladder every time we stir. So much for his night’s sleep. We’ve probably woken up his friend in the other lower bunk as well.

But when we finally pull into the station, both men are friendly and amiable despite the disruptive night, and ask to take photos of us in remembrance of the journey. Before saying our goodbyes, we use Google Translate to thank our helper as best we can for going above and beyond.

The good Samaritan on the left came to our rescue multiple times during the night.

Our memorable train journey is a reminder to us that, once again, it’s the kindness of strangers that makes our travels achievable and meaningful. Without it, we wouldn't be able to travel the way we do.