Lord Murugan Stands Guard

After our travels in India several years ago, we thought nothing could compare to the Hindu temples we saw — that is until we visited Batu Caves, a few kilometres from Kuala Lampur.

Lord Murugan literally can’t be missed. Visible from kilometres away, the colossal 43 metre golden statue of the Hindu deity, god of war, victory and wisdom is the tallest statue in Malaysia.

Lord Murugan stands at the ready, wielding a vel or divine spear, to protect the 400 million-year-old limestone caves housing the Batu Caves Temple Complex.

Flanked behind Lord Murugan, against the backdrop of the gigantic limestone formations are steps — 272 of them — painted in vivid rainbow colours inspired by the highly revered peacocks. Unable to see our destination at the end of the stairway we begin the climb.

Climbing the stairs to the Batu Temple Complex.

Taking a break.

We watch as some tourists, deemed dressed inappropriately, are forbidden to ascend the stairs. Knees and shoulders must be covered. Although a popular tourist site, this is no mere tourist attraction. It is a sacred site and place of pilgrimage for Tamil Hindus.

Pilgrims return from the Batu Caves.

But the monkeys are under no such restrictions. Careening around the stairs like miniature acrobats, they keep their eyes peeled for any hint of food. We’ve encountered monkeys before and we’re up to their tricks. They’re adorable but can quickly turn aggressive if they think we have something to eat. We carry no food, ensure all zippers are zipped and nothing is in our pockets.

Mother and baby keep a close eye out for any trace of food.

Keeping close watch. Photo: Noel Van Raes

We’re winded climbing the steep stairs, especially in the humid 34ºC temperatures. But we feel as if we’re on a mystical journey. Entering the Temple Cave, light spilling in from an opening in the roof, feels like stepping into a captivating spiritual realm.

An other worldly setting in the 400 million-year-old caves.

Inside, the huge cavern is dominated by extravagantly painted and decorated temples dedicated to Lord Murugan. Priests perform rituals and ceremonies while worshipers and devotees, some sitting in silence, others practicing mantra meditation—a phrase, word or sound that’s repeated, gather at one of the many shrines, imbuing a primordial air.

Vivid colours decorate the temples.

An offering for the gods.

We ask a priest sitting quietly in a small shrine if we can take a photo. “Yes” he says wanting to know where we’re from. His next question is how old Noel is. Noel’s grey hair, a visible indicator of age has sparked that question before on our journey. We’re later told by a Malaysian gentleman that age is respected and asking is a sign of respect.

A refreshing difference from our North American culture.

A friendly Hindu priest talks to Noel.

We sit and take our time savouring the ancient aura of the cavern. One of the big pluses of travelling independently is the time to enjoy a place to our heart’s content.

Peace and serenity stay with us as we head back down the stairs. It takes us almost as long to descend as we’re mesmerized by the spectacular views. And there’s still more to come at the bottom.

Kuala Lampur can be seen in the distance.

Noel, tired from the climb, waits as I visit some of the temples. At one, I’m greeted by a priest who gives me blessings and a bindi, a red dot placed between the eyebrows that symbolizes the third eye, considered to be a spirtual centre.

Sleeping goddess.

Hindu Temples.

Multiple arms and hands symbolize the deity's superhuman powers.

Divine eagle on which Lord Vishnu mounts.

Tired now too, I walk back through the crowds to Noel. Time to head back into Kuala Lampur, but not before a stop at the statue of the towering, (15 metres) half-monkey, half-human deity Lord Hanuman. Painted bright green he is an imposing presence as we exit the site.

Lord Hanuman, half man, half monkey is revered for his devotion and dedication.

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