Phaimai--A World Away From Bangkok

Cheryl
Jul 10
4 min read

Arriving early at Bangkok's newest train station, Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, the largest in Southeast Asia, we hop aboard what is known as an ordinary train — third class carriages only, (think hard seats and no air conditioning), essentially a milk run stopping at every hamlet along the way.

A refreshing breeze out the window. Photo: Noel Van Raes

But what a ride!

Spectacular views of the Thai countryside, a never-ending kaleidoscope of textures and colours pass by, the air from the open windows cooling the carriage.

School children, their blue and white uniforms worn somewhat haphazardly by the end of the day, clamour aboard, giving us friendly smiles. Happy to be released from the classroom, they chat animatedly with friends while taking selfies. Women, shopping bags at their feet and small children on their laps, relax, while a few tired workers try to sleep.

Passengers enjoy socializing.

Vendors hop on and off, selling everything from barbecued chicken pieces and bamboo rice to various drinks and sweets — a veritable moving buffet of delectable goodies passing by.

No need to pack snacks on these trains.

Travel on ordinary trains is in no way ordinary for us, but a highlight of our trip — an enlightening peek into everyday Thai life as locals go about their daily lives.

Four hours later, windblown, we arrive at the train station in Nakhon Ratchasima, better known as Korat, the largest city in Northeastern Thailand and third largest in the country. We order a Grab, (the local ride sharing app), and head to the bus station. But it’s the wrong bus station. Buses here don’t go to Phimai, our destination.

Korat train station.

Figuring out transportation is often a challenge with independent travel, but today it’s easily solved. We order another Grab ride and are soon at the right bus station. It’s perfect timing — our bus leaves in ten minutes.

A short one hour bus ride and we’re in Phimai. Although only 300 km from Bangkok, Phimai, a small farming village that’s home to the Phimai Historical Park, is a world away. Off the trampled path, only a small percentage of Thailand's 37 million annual tourists travel to this region.

Whenever possible, we choose accommodation within walking distance of sights. The historical park is a mere five-minute stroll from our hotel.

Following remnants of ancient walls, we arrive at the park the following morning at opening time, the serenity broken only by the very loud, some would say raucous, call of Asian koel birds. I contemplate whether the same sound perhaps greeted ancient worshipers as they venerated their ancestors and performed rituals to honour deities.

Once part of the ancient Khmer Kingdom, Phimai was built between the 11^th and 12^th centuries. Often compared to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, it was one of the most important Khmer sites. An unusual feature of the Phimai Temple is its orientation to the south, as most Khmer temples face east.

Phimai Historical Park.

Entrance to Phimai Historical Park. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Freshly laid garlands to honour the deity. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Nagas, half-human, half-serpent, semi divine beings guard the entrance bridge – a symbolic crossing from the secular world to the divine realm, leading to the inner sanctuary, the most sacred area of the complex. It really does feel like we’ve entered another dimension into the past. The central prang (tower) made of white sandstone and adorned with delicate carvings follows the usual form of multi-tiers, growing smaller as it ascends.

A Naga guards the bridge. Photo: Noel Van Raes

We find a spot in the shade and savour the grandeur of the site, breathing in the aura of the ancient Khmer civilization.

Only an Asian koel bird breaks the silence and solitude of the historical park.

We rouse ourselves only to head to the nearby Phimai National Museum. Several galleries and exhibition spaces display a wide assortment of objects — sculptures, jewellery, weapons, and ceramics, many of which originate from Phimai Historical Park.

The way of life is reflected in the ancient art.

Photo: Noel Van Raes

Shinga: A mythical beast that represents power and acts as a guardian.

We’ve only been in Thailand for two days and it’s in Phimai that we make our first foray to a bustling night market. Locals scurry around getting take-out meals or stocking up on meats, fruits and vegetables for the evening meal, while we stand almost shellshocked at the almost overwhelming choice of delectable foods to sample.

Fresh fruits and vegetables abound at the Phimai night market.

Reading about the markets is one thing, but actually being in one is quite another. What to try first — an almost impossible choice. After dithering, I start with deep-fried tiny shrimp, then move on to grilled fish, deep fried miniature crab, sauteed vegetables and bamboo rice, but I can’t finish the yummy looking marshmallow dessert I bought. Turns out my eyes really are bigger than my stomach.

Deep fried shrimp.

Grilled fish.

Deep fried crab.

The delicacies don’t stop there. Multiple street-food vendors have set up outside the market perimeter, serving everything from bak boong (water spinach in garlic sauce) to khai palo (pork and eggs). Not a tourist-based pad Thai restaurant in sight.

So many choices.

Marshmallow treats.

As good as it looks, we’re stuffed. We’ll have to wait until tomorrow night to indulge.

But it wouldn’t be a day in Thailand without a heavenly slushy. We watch as the server chops up a mango in a blender, mixing it with ice and water, the resident cat keeping us company.