George Town, Malaysia — One of the Best UNESCO Cities on the Planet

We’re relieved to be across the Thai-Malaysian border. It’s been a long five-hour ride in a cramped mini van. Only half an hour to the hotel we booked in Malaysia — or so we thought, until the driver said to use the toilets as it was still three hours to our destination.

Huh?

There’s been a misunderstanding. The van isn’t going to Padang Besar, our destination,  now about two hours away. Getting to our hotel is out of the question. We agree to be dropped off at a nearby taxi stand where we can get a ride to Bukit, only a few kilometres away.

We find a helpful taxi driver, who asks if we want a cheap, expensive or in-the-middle hotel. Middle it is. Our room is sparse, but clean and there are bank machines and restaurants close by.

We’ll sort out transportation to George Town in the morning. But the sorting out doesn’t go quite as we anticipated. We arrive at the bus station at 8 a.m. only to find it almost deserted. Only three offices out of a couple of dozen are open and none have buses to George Town. We ask them how we’re supposed to get there. Take a taxi, says one, pointing to a man sitting alone at a picnic table in the empty courtyard.

The price for the two-hour journey is fair, and that’s how we end up being chauffeured right to the door of our hotel in the heart of George Town. But it’s much more than a ride — our chatty driver regales us with cultural insights into his country, government and people. An immersive initiation to Malaysia.

George Town, a World Heritage site and the largest metropolitan area in Malaysia, actually encompasses the entirety of Penang Island as well as a few surrounding islets. We’re enthralled by the spectacular scenery as we cross the 13.5–km long Penang Bridge connecting George Town to the mainland.

George Town is a breeze to get around — a big plus for independent travellers. A free shuttle bus, Central Area Transit (CAT), goes around to the major landmarks, museums and art galleries.

Central Area Transit Bus, (CAT).

Riding the shuttle bus, we’re amazed by George Town’s array of architectural styles that speak to Malaysia’s varied cultural heritage forged from trade and colonization — originally Malay, Indian, Chinese and for the last 500 years European — Portuguese, Dutch and British. 

Chinese temple.

Ganesh, a Hindu deity welcomes customers to a store.

Founded as a free port, George Town was the first British settlement in Southeast Asia and is emblematic of the British era at the end of the end of the 18th century. They

were the longest and last occupiers, remaining until independence in 1957.

St. George's Anglican church.

Jubilee Clock Tower, also known as Queen Victoria Memorial Clock Tower.

A reminder of George Town's colonial past.

We see more and more, on our travels, that globalization is not a new phenomenon.

In this cultural melting pot, a significant portion of the population identify as Peranakan, a native-born person of mixed local and foreign ancestry, Peranakan Chinese being the most well-known.

Vestiges of Chinese culture dot George Town.

At the Penang Peranakan Mansion, a former residence belonging to the 19th-century Chinese tycoon, Chung Keng Quee, we meet a group of Chinese Peranakans who are researching their unique cultural heritage.

Penang Peranakan Mansion

As luck would have it, it’s Chinese New Year when we arrive in George Town. Wandering the narrow, crowded, smoke-filled streets, we see giant colourful joss sticks the height of a person burning at temples in celebration of the holiday. It’s believed the smoke carries prayers to deities and ancestors in the spirit world.

Joss sticks are burned to celebrate the Chinese New Year.

Historical remnants of the original Chinese immigration in the mid 19th century still remain, too. Seven Chinese Clan Jetties comprising seven wooden villages of stilt houses built over the water, still retain traditional Chinese culture. Descendents of the original clans still reside in the homes, and each Clan Jetty is named after the specific clan that owns it.  

Chinese Clan Jetty.

Residents of the Chinese Clan Jetties still fish, but it is no longer their sole occupation.

Mural of days gone by. Photo: Noel Van Raes

The wooden stilts need to be replaced every five years.

Beautiful vistas are a prized feature of the Chinese Clan Jetties.

Wooden boardwalks dotted with temples connect the houses providing a stroll into a rich historical tapestry. 

Burning incense is a way to connect with the divine.

The largest, Chew Jetty, is crammed with  tacky souvenir shops and besieged by incessant picture-taking tourists, but the smaller jetties are, thankfully, much quieter.

A ten minute walk away, Armenian Street, named after a temporary influx of Armenian traders in the 1800s, is home to a famous mural, "Children on a Bicycle,” by Earnest Zacharevic. Street art began gaining prominence in 2012 and George Town has taken off as one of Southeast Asia’s street art capitals.  

The Armenians have left their mark on George Town as well.

Bright umbrellas welcome visitors to Armenian Street.

One of George Town's most famous paintings created by artist Earnest Zacharevic.

Photo: Noel Van Raes

Street art abounds in George Town.

The little boy by Earnest Zacharevic looks so real. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Uniquely designed wire sculptures create snapshots of interesting historical events.

Needing a break from the heat of George Town’s streets we head to Bukit Bendera (Penang Hill), the oldest British Hill Station in southeast Asia, established to escape the heat and malaria of the lowlands.

The Penang Hill Funicular Railway , a historical landmark over 100 years old, ferries visitors to the top of this sprawling complex 833 metres above George Town. Intrepid hikers can still climb the steep path up, a strenuous three-hour hike. We opt for the funicular.

Penang Hill Funicular Railway

Penang Hill Funicular Railway tunnel. Photo: Noel Van Raes

We nab places at the front of the train, giving us a bird’s-eye view of lush verdant tropical growth, and an unobstructed view of the steepest funicular tunnel in the world.

Cooler air and breathtaking panoramic views of George Town and the Straits of Malacca greet us as we exit the funicular.

No wonder hilltop stations were a staple of British occupation.

View from the top of Penang Hill. The Penang Bridge connecting George Town to the mainland can be seen in the background.

But it’s not all colonial-style buildings that we spot as we meander around Penang Hill. Originally a small shrine, Sri Arloli Thirumurugan Temple, (Penang Hill Hindu Temple) was constructed for South Indian immigrants in the early 19^th century. Over the years it has been enlarged and is now an impressive, ornate structure painted bright shades of blue, green and red.

Penang Hill Hindu Temple.

Nearby, our attention is drawn to the gold domes and minarets of Masjid Bukit Bendera (Penang Hill Mosque). Built for the use of Muslims living and working on Penang Hill, it is reflective of the Islamic influence in Malaysia — almost 60 percent of the population is Muslim.

Penang Hill Mosque. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Enjoying their honeymoon at Bukit Bendera. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Back down the hill in town, there’s one more thing we want to experience before heading on to our next adventure — a ride in one of the picturesque cycle rickshaws that ply the streets of George Town. We take the first one we see and enjoy our driver’s steady stream of conversation as he pedals us through the historic streets by the ferry terminal.

We thank our driver and say our goodbyes to both him and George Town.