Singapore – Tradition and Modernity in Sync

“Singapore is a crown jewel of modern civilization,” reads the headline in a travel story. Is it true or simply hyperbole? We’re about to find out. Already in Malaysia, my husband Noel and I make Singapore our next destination.

Over 1,000 skyscrapers grace the skyline in Singapore.

Aside from its reputation as a futuristic city and economic powerhouse of Southeast Asia, we know few details about this island city-state.

ArtScience Museum

Singapore has an extensive network of covered walkways to provide pedestrians protection from the sun and rain.

We’re briefly confused at the Malaysia-Singapore border as the train recommended in our guidebook no longer exists. But passing through customs is hassle-free and we soon find ourselves waiting for a bus into Singapore. But which of the several buses do we take?

English is one of the four official languages in Singapore and, as happens many times during our sojourn, a kind local steps in to help, asking where we’re going in the city. We’re not sure of our hotel’s location so we just say the centre, hoping we’ll end up in the right place.

A half-hour later our bus pulls into its stop. But where are we in Singapore? I don’t have a Singaporean SIM card yet so I can’t access information, nor can I access the local ride-sharing app, Grab. Taxis wait nearby but refuse to take us to our hotel. Why, we don’t know.

Another good Samaritan, an elderly gentleman, comes to our rescue. Googling our hotel, he gives us directions. It’s only a kilometre away.

What luck. A city of six million and we’ve landed a short walk from our destination. Luck follows us to our hotel. We’ve been selected for a free premium room upgrade: a bigger room is a real luxury in space-starved Singapore.

We head to the pool to cool off. Surrounded by bodies of water and almost on the equator, Singapore’s climate is tropical with high humidity. Noel finds it stifling. For me, it’s perfect.

A dip in the pool is always welcome in the heat. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Hungry by now, we head to the food court beside our hotel, where we’re spoiled for choice by some twenty small, privately owned restaurants. It’s mid-afternoon but the area is almost full.

Eating appears to be a national pastime in Singapore, and it’s no wonder. Peranakan cuisine — multicultural fusion dishes influenced by Chinese, Eurasian, Indian and Malay cuisines — deliciously blend aromatic spices of ginger, garlic, chili and turmeric. The national dish of chicken rice is a must try.

The selection of mouth watering meals is never ending in Singapore.

Choosing what to eat is always the big decision of the day.

A large part of enjoying Singaporean cuisine revolves around Hawker centres, basically open-air food courts. While they don’t provide the air-conditioned comfort of restaurants, they do serve up a delectable array of traditional dishes for affordable prices.

Always a vast selection of cuisines at Hawker Centres.

And all eateries appear to be busy. We wonder if Singaporeans spend their days eating.

What we don’t try is a Singapore Sling, created in 1915 at Long Bar in Raffles Hotel. At $40 CAD, the price tag is just too steep.

The Singaporean population is as varied as its food. Established as a British port in 1819, Singapore has been influenced by several cultures due to its ideal position as a key trading hub for Britain and an international shipping port. Its close proximity to several Asian countries —Thailand, China, the Philippines, Malaysia, Indonesia and India — has led to diversity in both food and culture.

Singapore’s diversity is accompanied by high levels of inter-religious tolerance and acceptance. Since independence in 1965, the government has promoted the idea that the concepts of multi-racialism and multi-religiosity are foundational to the country.

Appetites perpetually satiated, we spend our days wandering Singapore's historical areas: Chinatown, Little India, Kampong Glam (the Arab Quarter), and Boat Quay (an embankment on the Singapore River).

Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam, (Arab section).

Sri Mariamman Temple in Little India is Singapore's oldest Hindu temple.

Buddha Tooth Relic Temple and Museum in Chinatown

St. Andrew's Anglican Cathedral

Singapore is in a constant push-and-pull to conserve historical buildings while balancing the constant need to grow the economy and develop infrastructure.

The green copper dome tops the iconic building that formerly housed the Supreme Court of Singapore.

It’s a  successful balancing, in our eyes. Authentic historical areas preserve their vibrant, unique character, offering a peek into the city’s past. Rows of shop houses (which combine shops and living quarters), culture and cuisine create a colourful swirl in the narrow, traffic-free streets reflecting urban past lives.

Rows of shop houses are restored to their former glory.

Fountain in Boat Quay.

The Singapore River looms large in Singapore’s history. A short cruise along the river on a traditional bumboat, historically vital for transporting cargo from ships, is a voyage through Singapore’s history from a small sleepy fishing village to its transformation into a modern metropolis. An enticing three-kilometre River Walk along its banks further traces the development of Singapore.

Traditional bumboats on the Singapore River.

The Singapore River, once heavily polluted, reflects Singapore’s commitment to minimizing the negative effects of that development. It is now clean enough that marine animals have returned. We see otters frolicking on its banks and large monitor lizards swimming effortlessly.

A Monitor Lizard suns itself on the banks of the Singapore River.

Monitor lizards like to stroll the path alongside the Singapore River.

Photo: Noel Van Raes

River Walk

Photo: Noel Van Raes

Our week-long stay in Singapore challenged our assumptions on many levels. Our first surprise — learning that this safe city, free of litter and graffiti — at least partially reflects a harsh, archaic system of punishment that includes caning, large fines, humiliation, and execution by hanging.

Forgetful flushers, beware — it’s a crime. And don’t be chewing gum — it’s banned.

On our forays in the city, it also slowly dawned on us that something is noticeably missing.

Gridlock.

How is that possible in a city of six million people?

First off, a comprehensive, efficient and affordable public transport system with 160 metro stations across six Mass Rapid Transit lines spans the island. And it’s a breeze to use, with one station located right under our hotel. Several thousand buses also ply the roads. No tickets are needed for city transport, just a contactless credit card.

The Singapore Metro is spotlessly clean. We seldom experience crowds.

Second, the lack of gridlock is  made possible by the political will to implement policies. In this case, congestion charges in the form of a peak-hour toll on motorists.

If only the premier of our province, Ontario, would heed these policies in lieu of creating car-based cities.

But this ultra-efficient transportation system doesn’t mean that Singapore is only urban.

Also known as “City in a Garden,” parks, gardens and nature reserves cover 40% of the island, including a stand of virgin rainforest. Integrated greenery is everywhere — rooftop gardens, green walls, and trees stuck into and between buildings wherever possible.

We spend an entire day exploring the Gardens by the Bay, a 101 hectare oasis in central Singapore featuring an astounding 1.5 million plants from all over the world. Stepping into the Cloud Forest, a cooled moist conservatory, feels like we’ve entered another world. Home to the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, it is a cornucopia of exotic plant species. Aerial walkways take us through high-altitude tropical landscapes.

At 35 metres the Cloud Forest Waterfall in Singapore is the tallest indoor waterfall in the world. Photo: Noel Van Raes

The Cloud Forest replicates the cool moist conditions of a tropical rain forest.

Aerial walkway in the Cloud Forest.

View from the Cloud Forest aerial walkways.

A selfie by the Cloud Forest waterfall is a must.

Photo: Noel Van Raes

Outside, the futuristic forest of eighteen SuperTrees dominates. These 25- to 50-metre-tall structures, designed to resemble trees, have trunks that are actually vertical gardens showcasing an astonishing array of flora. They’re unlike anything we’ve ever seen. Like real trees, they provide shade during the day, and collect rainwater for irrigation and fountain displays. Others are equipped with solar panels to provide energy for the nightly light show.

SuperTrees at Gardens by the Bay.

Photo: Noel Van Raes

The trunks of SuperTrees are covered in a variety of flowering plants.

Photo: Noel Van Raes

SuperTree forest.

We bypass the aerial walkway between two of the SuperTrees. We’re just too tired, but do catch a view of the gardens from Level 57 of the Marina Sands Hotel, an iconic destination where we splurge on lunch.

Marina Sands Hotel.

View from level 57 of the Marina Sands Hotel.

Beet salad.

Singapore is a city of surprises — a meticulously planned, livable metropolis that’s kept its soul. History hasn’t been razed, but embraced. Its mix of modern and historic buildings — rows of quaint shophouses beside colossal futuristic skyscrapers — creates distinctive, inviting urban landscapes.

Singapore is not quite like any city we’ve ever visited.

"Forward to the Future"