Catemaco —Witchcraft Capital of Mexico
- Cheryl
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
For us, Mexico is in some ways like an old friend. It’s one of the countries where, fifty years ago, we first dipped our toes into independent travel, and returning feels comfortable. But our old haunts, such as the Yucatan, are now over-touristed, so it’s on to new horizons. Our choice? The state of Veracruz. Xalapa, the state’s capital city, is only a four-hour drive east of Mexico City. And the state itself is home to diverse cultures and traditions. Six Pueblos Mágicos, or Magical Towns, dot the state, while ten ancient archaeological sites highlight the pre-Hispanic cultures, including the Olmec, Totonac, and Huastec. And, surprising to us, it’s home to the witchcraft capital, Catemaco.
Sitting on the shores of a volcanic lake of the same name, Catemaco is rightly famous for its picturesque setting and unique flora. But it’s even better-known for its witchcraft. The origins of these shamanic traditions date back to the Olmecs, an early major Mesoamerican civilization that flourished from 1200-400 BCE. The arrival of Spanish colonizers brought not only Catholicism but also a large population of enslaved Africans, leading to a syncretism of rituals. These ancestral traditions historically favoured males, and this holds true today, as most witches in Catemaco are men.
Local practitioners of witchcraft believe their powers come from many sources: the lush forest with its many curative and magical herbs, Lake Catemaco, where it's believed spirits reside, spiritual portals believed to be open during specific times and various deities. Others claim that they inherited their gifts through generations of their family.
However, it was Gonzalo Aquirre Pech who brought fame to Catemaco in the 1970s. Known as the Brujo Mayor, a high witch or sorcerer, he performed rituals for the rich and famous. It’s quiet now in the town, but the annual Witchcraft Festival in March, started by Pech, draws crowds of thousands eager to use the services of the large number of shamans, healers and witches that set up shop along with local practitioners.
But don’t conjure up that over-the-top Hollywood spectacle of witchcraft, though. Both black magic — curses and hexes to cause others misfortune, and white magic — the use of supernatural powers for good, can be arranged for a price. Love spells remain popular. The most requested ritual is a spiritual cleansing, an ancient practice to cleanse the spirit and restore harmony. And that’s what I’m after.
We’re told that Nanciyaga Ecological Park, a sanctuary of biodiversity on the shores of Lake Catemaco, has a resident witch. The park can be reached by car or boat. We chose a boat tour of the lake that includes a 90-minute stop at the ecological park, where the boatmen wait for their customers to return.
It doesn’t take long to negotiate a deal with one of the many boatmen waiting for customers. Various shades of lush green rainforest along the shore captivate us as the boat glides through the water. Our first stop is Isla de Monos, or Island of Monkeys, home to a colony of Southeast Asian macaques. They’re not endemic to Mexico, but were probably brought by a fisherman in the 1970s. We’re not allowed off the boat, but can easily spot them from shore.
Large trees on nearby small islands host immense flocks of migratory birds on their branches. Just like people on a long road trip, the birds rest, eat and drink before continuing on their journey. We see several species but are unable to confidently identify all of them.
In what seems like no time but is actually about an hour, we arrive at Nanciyaga Ecological Park. A guide is mandatory here, and although none of them speaks English, ours speaks Spanish slowly and clearly, so I’m more or less able to understand and translate for Noel.
The magical allure of the park is palpable as we begin the tour. Only the sounds of birds and well-camouflaged howler monkeys echoing through the canopy break the silence. Coatepec was home to one of Mexico’s ancient cultures — the Olmec, an early Mesoamerican civilization that flourished from 1200 to 400 BCE. Enthralling reproductions of Olmec sculptures, reflecting their civilization’s accomplishments, are scattered along the labyrinth of trails, adding an almost spiritual feel.
We’re almost at the end when our guide points out the witch's hut. "Did either of us want a limpia spiritual, or spiritual cleansing?", our guide asks. Indeed, I do. It's 150 Mexican pesos, he informs me. That's about twelve Canadian dollars — a bargain.
Entering the hut, I’m greeted by a middle-aged female witch dressed in everyday clothing who tells me to cierre mis ojos, close my eyes. So, what happens after I know only by touch. First, my entire body is brushed with what feels like wet leaves while the witch murmurs incantations. I think I smell herbs, probably rosemary. Smoke and the smell of incense are definitely in the air, and I feel heat being moved around my body as smoke wafts into my nostrils. Special attention is paid to my head as gentle fingertips massage my scalp. The incantations continue, but she does not speak to me at all during the experience. A mere ten minutes later, and I’m cleansed. Before leaving, the witch places an amulet around my neck to protect me from evil, harm or misfortune.
Do I feel cleansed with my inner harmony restored? Mmm...I think that remains to be seen. But I’m sure feeling good as we return to the boat to complete our tour around the reed-fringed coves of Lake Catemaco.
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