From Tanbaly to Astana — The Past to the Future
- Cheryl
- 4 days ago
- 6 min read
Ancient Petroglyphs of Tanbaly
We’re heading back, way back, to the Bronze, Iron and Medieval Ages; the petroglyphs of Tanbaly, Kazakhstan, are our time machine. Tanbaly, which means painted or marked place in Kazakh, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to 5000 petroglyphs carved into the rock surfaces, 3000 of which are located in Tanbaly, a remote river canyon.
Leaving the chaotic traffic of Almaty, it’s a smooth two-and-a-half-hour drive to Tanbaly Canyon with our driver, whose English — learned via three months of Duolingo — is surprisingly good. Guided tours are mandatory, and we pick up our government guide at a small museum, who regales us with in-depth information as we drive the few remaining kilometres to the petroglyphs.
The only people at the site, we follow our guide for the kilometre walk to the arid mountains of the ancient river canyon of Tanbaly, through vast steppe, broken only by the sight of a single horseman, to our gateway to the past. We’re blown away by the sheer number, size and diverse array of petroglyphs: enigmatic hunting scenes, shamanic symbols, geometric symbols, sacrifice scenes, women in labour, anthropomorphic figures, and erotic scenes.
But these images are not just art. All hold enormous significance, a medley of meaning, offering a peek into the lives of the people who lived here centuries ago, their cultural and spiritual beliefs. The petroglyphs symbolize and mirror the social structure of the everyday lives of these ancient people.
Not surprisingly, considering the importance of animals to the everyday survival of a nomadic lifestyle, images of animals — including goats, camels, deer, horses, and boars, as well as the hunters pursuing them — abound. Sun-headed deities depict gods and their ritual worship, offering insight into the ideologies of countless nomadic societies.
Back at the museum, we enjoy a picnic lunch of chicken, rice, cucumbers, tomatoes and fresh bread with our driver, while our guide tells us about her life in Kazakhstan and answers our lingering questions.
We ponder the deep revelations of the Tanbaly petroglyphs and marvel at the ingenuity and artistic abilities of our ancient ancestors. It’s not only the knowledge we’ve gained, but a deeper understanding and connection to our shared human past with those who used rocks as natural canvases.
Astana — City of the Future
Twenty-four hours later, we’re catapulted from the ancient petroglyphs of Tanbaly to Astana, the "City of the Future.” Astonishingly, a mere twenty-eight years ago, this city didn’t exist. Before its designation as the capital city of post-Soviet Kazakhstan in 1997, it was an outpost primarily known for its proximity to the Alzhir detention camp, notorious for its inhumane treatment of the wives and children of alleged traitors.
Astana’s mix of futuristic cityscapes and architecturally innovative designs gives the city a surreal feeling. Weirdly quiet sidewalks add to the feeling. There’s no hustle and bustle of people — the city is too spread out to walk, making it feel like something out of a science fiction movie.
Our first sighting of a monumental building is the iconic 105-metre Bayterek Tower. Visible from all over the city, the golden mirrored sphere on top gleams magically in the sun. A design related to the traditional beliefs of the nomads, it represents the Kazakh mythological tree of life. We’re disappointed to miss the much-touted panoramic views — the elevator is on the fritz the day we visit, but it’s onward to more marvels of modern Kazakh architecture.
Rising incongruously from Presidential Park, looking more like it belongs in Egypt than Central Asia, is the 62-metre-high, glass-and-steel Pyramid of Peace and Accord, also known as the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation. This stunning architectural feat is designed to withstand extreme temperature variations — a good thing, as Astana is the coldest capital city in the world, experiencing temperatures as cold as -50℃ in the winter, but also gets as high as 40℃ in the summer, an astounding difference of nearly 100℃ between the seasons.
Inside this non-denominational global centre for religious understanding and peace are exhibition spaces, conference rooms, and an opera house seating 1500. My favourite room? Congress Hall. Located at the apex of the pyramid, this circular chamber is designed without a head table or other hierarchy, in accordance with the palace’s goal of promoting universal harmony. The glass windows depict doves in flight, a symbol of peace.
As avid museum-goers, we don’t want to miss the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan, covering history from the Bronze Age to modern times. A stunning gilded sculpture of a giant golden eagle hovering near the ceiling greets us at the entrance. Used for centuries for hunting, the eagle, also on the Kazakh flag, symbolizes independence, freedom, and hope for the future.
We marvel at gold jewellery and the rich array of artefacts related to Kazakhstan’s nomadic culture throughout the museum. But we’re also looking for insight into Kazakhstan’s culture and a deeper understanding of how recent history impacts the people and culture of today. We find it at the People of Kazakhstan exhibit — a harrowing introduction to the diverse ethnic groups who were forced to make Kazakhstan home as a result of Stalin's deportations and 20th-century repressions of the Soviet era, exacerbated by horrific losses in WWII.
More upbeat, but also revealing, is the contemporary arts section. Many of these 20th and 21st-century Kazakh artworks showcase themes of cultural heritage, history and the modern world, focusing on modern artistic techniques and traditional zoomorphic, geometric and plant motifs.
After lunch at the museum cafe, we order a cab via Yandex Go, the local ride-sharing app, to the newly constructed Grand Mosque. Hands down, it’s the most awe-inspiring building we see. One of the largest in Central Asia, it can accommodate up to 30,000 worshipers in its main prayer hall. Its four 77-metre minarets carve striking silhouettes against the city’s skyline, and are topped with the same azure blue as its spectacular dome, the largest in the world.
After donning a blue robe, provided at the entrance only to women to ensure they meet the Islamic standard for modesty, we enter this stunning showpiece of Islamic art. Outside of prayer time, we can wander at will. I’ve always enjoyed just sitting in mosques and enjoying the peaceful ambiance and soaking in the architectural splendour. As the afternoon call to prayer, one of the five daily, reverberates through the mosque, we sit on the floor outside the prayer hall watching as the faithful gather.
There aren’t many today. Friday is the holy day when believers flock to the mosque.
All in all, Astana is the most unusual capital city we’ve ever visited — both fascinating and compelling in its own way. With oil money rolling into Kazakhstan, this planned city is still developing at breakneck speed. Innovative buildings continue to rise, seemingly trying to outdo each other in their design, as this city proceeds to boldly define the future.
Comments