Coatepec — Orchid and Coffee Capital of Mexico

Jalapeño, the now almost universally known pepper, is Spanish for “from Xalapa”. Xalapa, pronounced jalapa, is the capital of the state of Veracruz, giving rise to the popular belief that the famous peppers are grown in the surrounding area. They’re not, but the process of pickling and canning the peppers was invented here.

However, Xalapa’s newest claim to fame, and what we’ve come to see, is its Museum of Anthropology, which houses 25,000 artefacts showcasing a diverse collection from the Aztecs to the Huastecs. We’re mesmerized by the array of artifacts belonging to the Olmec. Arising around 1600 to 1500 BCE on the Gulf coast of Veracruz, the Olmecs are considered the mother culture of Mesoamerica, playing a role in the formation of subsequent complex societies such as the Maya and Aztecs. Most astonishing to us is the collection of gigantic Olmec heads carved from volcanic stone and weighing up to fifty tons.

Olmec colossal heads dating back to at least 900 BCE. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Wheels were used for children's toys but not for transport or tools.

Terracotta fragments of hands. Photo: Noel Van Raes

But we’ve also come to Xalapa for another reason — its proximity to Coatepec. Only a short bus ride away, Coatepec is a town that holds not one but two titles: Orchid Capital and Coffee Capital of Mexico. Hopping off the bus in Coatepec, the aroma of freshly ground coffee from cafes scattered throughout the town welcomes us as we amble down the cobblestoned streets. For Noel, a coffee connoisseur since our first trip to Europe fifty years ago, it’s heavenly.

Coatepec is known for its coffee culture.

In addition, Coatepec is one of many Pueblos Mágicos, or Magic Towns, chosen by the Mexican government, that offer magical experiences through their cultural and historical significance and natural beauty. These enchanting towns, known for offering unique experiences, are usually away from overrun tourist hotspots, a crucial consideration for us.

Parroquia de San Jerónimo. Construction on this historic church began in 1684 but was not completed until 1806.

 And what an experience it is. Coatepec was an important stop on the old road to Mexico City, and pre-Hispanic and colonial traditions delightfully merge in this Pueblo Mágico, where 376 of its buildings are designated as historically significant.

Colour brightens the streets of Coatepec.

Purely by happenstance, as is often the way of our mode of travel, we stumble upon the Museo de la Orquídea, or Orchid Museum — the only museum in Mexico dedicated to the cultivation and preservation of Mexico’s diverse orchid species. A tour is just beginning and the guide speaks English, which is unusual in this part of Mexico.

Our tour of the orchid museum. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Walking through the museum's humid jungle-like environment, we’re given a close-up look at these delicate beauties of the world, as our guide explains the specific conditions orchids need to thrive. We’re treated to an up-close view of an astonishing number of varieties, sometimes needing to use magnifying glasses to see the tiniest. One of the most surprising things we learn is the role of tiny orchid-pollinator bees. Without them, orchids would struggle to survive. Now we know why the orchid we’ve nurtured for ten years in our home refuses to bloom.

The vibrancy of the orchids is mesmerizing.

Back on the street, we head to the zocolo, or main square — always a hive of activity late in the day. Children play in the open area while grandparents watch nearby. Teens meet up with friends and hang out. Young parents, babies in tow, sit and enjoy the view. Food trucks do a booming business. For us, it’s a quick snack of homemade potato chips, Coatepec style, with cream, grated cheese, and hot sauce on top, before we head back to our room to book a tour of a coffee plantation for the next day.

Young people hang out in the zocalo.

Food trucks are popular.

An array of hot sauces spice up the chips. Photo: Noel Van Raes

Noel pronounces them the best potato chips he's ever had.

It takes only a couple of minutes to hail a taxi early the following morning for the half-hour drive to Bola de Oro, one of the oldest coffee plantations in Mexico and the producer of Mexico’s most well-known coffee, Café Taza de Oro. It’s just us and two young Mexican women taking the tour. Our guide doesn’t speak English, but has assured me he will speak slowly so I can understand and translate for Noel. But first, straw hats for the sun are provided and a miniature cup for each of us — we’re mystified as to their purpose.

It’s here in this region that the earliest mass cultivation of the Arabica coffee tree began in Mexico. And that’s where our tour starts — with a visit to the museum to demonstrate the process of producing coffee in the early 20th century.

An antique coffee bean husker.

Then it’s off for a quick explanation of growing a plant from seed, followed by our favourite — walking through the coffee plantation. Scattered amongst the coffee trees are various species of tall-growing trees planted to create a canopy and provide shade, helping regulate temperature and simulate a natural forest environment. Some coffee trees have beans ready to pick, others are still in flower. Interestingly, before roasting, the beans are not brown. The Arabica tree’s berries are a bright red. There is only one coffee harvest per year, usually somewhere between November and April.

It takes three or four years for a coffee tree to grow from a seedling to maturity.

These Arabica coffee beans are almost ready to be harvested. Photo: Noel Van Raes

However, our tour doesn’t end here. There’s still the coffee-tasting workshop. Coffee is made for us, and our guide demonstrates how to properly smell and engage our taste buds. He asks everyone their impressions of the smells and tastes as we take small sips. Mmm — a problem for me. I love the smell of coffee but hate the taste. But to admit that here would be heresy. I echo the responses of the Mexican women, hoping I sound sincere.

Our guide instructs us about proper coffee tasting technique.

Taste perceptions: sweet, sour, salty, bitter.

And, for the finale, we find out what those tiny cups are for — coffee liqueur. It’s on that sweet note that we reflect on our experiences in the Coatepec area. It has indeed been magical.