Beyond the Beaches — Oaxaca Remains Distinct From the Rest of Mexico
- Cheryl
- 18 minutes ago
- 8 min read
Oaxaca City, the capital and largest city of the Mexican state of Oaxaca, oozes charm from its every pore. Separated from much of Mexico by the eastern and southern Sierra Madre mountains, this almost 500-year-old city remains distinct from the rest of the country. Even the 1.2 million visitors that flock here every year can’t diminish the charisma of this ethnically diverse city.
Oaxaca’s historical centre, home to more than 1,200 centuries-old buildings, covers almost five square kilometres. Wandering through the cobblestone streets laid out in a 16th-century Spanish-colonial grid is like turning pages in a picture book — a constant
display of colourful colonial architecture and picturesque plazas with stately cathedrals. Small art galleries, graphic art studios and artisan stores tempt us with Oaxacan handicrafts from carvings to clothing.
Added to the mix are the vibrant hues of murals scattered throughout the city on walls, doorways and steps. Muralism has its roots in a 1920s government-initiated art movement designed to unite the country after the Mexican Revolution. Showcasing historical and nature scenes often combined with indigenous symbolism or political messages, the murals continue to both reflect and shape Oaxaca’s cultural heritage.
We’re captivated and literally walk until we almost drop. “We’ll just go down one more street,” we say to each other multiple times before collapsing at a nearby cafe. Sitting and gathering strength, we hear the sounds of an approaching parade. A band, accompanied by dancers and costumed characters, all dancing enthusiastically, soon appears. But what are they celebrating, we wonder. It’s then that I spot the huge balloon with the word bautizo, or baptism. Originally religious, the baptism ceremony has morphed into more secular traditions. There’s a church service, but the emphasis is now on the grand fiesta with dinner, dancing and live music.
Sufficiently revived, we decide to visit the Santo Domingo de Guzmán, the cathedral where the baptism had just taken place. Constructed in the sixteenth century by the Dominicans, this cathedral is one of Oaxaca’s most resplendent. We watch as the greenish-hued baroque stone facades shift colour in the setting sun. But it’s heading inside that really wows us. We enter the church just as an orchestra and opera singer begin rehearsing. We listen enraptured to the incredible acoustics while gazing at our opulent surroundings. More than 60,000 sheets of gold were used for decorative wall carvings, statues and altars. The massive vaulted ceilings gleam in gold relief, evoking a sense of the divine.
Never ones to miss a museum, we wander next door into the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca, housed in the stunning former Monastery of Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Fourteen fascinating permanent galleries and nine thematic galleries showcase archaeology, history and ethnography from ancient cultures to modern Mexico. The bulk of the archaeological artifacts on display were discovered by INAH (National Institute of Anthropology and History) during their excavation works carried out in Oaxaca. There’s so much information; it’s difficult to digest it all.
Taking a break to peer out a window on the top floor, we have a bird’s-eye view of Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden. Appearing otherworldly, the garden contains many hundreds of plant species, all native to Oaxaca, many of which are used by indigenous communities in the region for food, medicine and cultural practices.
Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden
A short walk away, the sprawling zocalo, or main square, beckons us. Zocalos are our favourite place to visit in Mexico. It’s always the happening place where everyone gathers in the evenings, from the youngest to the oldest. Musicians perform a variety of music, from traditional Mariachi to Mexican folk music, all hoping to earn tips from appreciative listeners. In larger zocalos, various buskers, hawkers and vendors liven up the atmosphere even more on the weekends. Although we see no demonstrations, Mexico’s zocalos also provide a deeply rooted forum for public expression and demonstrations of every kind. All zocalos are journeys into the heart of Mexican culture — places to socialize or just sit and enjoy. There’s no equivalent in Canada due to our cold climate. While winter finds Canadians huddled around in our homes, Mexicans enjoy year-round outdoor socializing.
However, as much as we’re enjoying Oaxaca, we want to visit Monte Alban, one of Mesoamerica’s most stunning archaeological sites. A local hotel offers transportation to the site about ten kilometres from Oaxaca. The bus is empty when we board, but it picks up a full load as we drive through the city before transitioning into the final stretch of winding curves and switchbacks as we quickly gain elevation.
Arriving at the entrance about half an hour later, we’re approached by two young German couples and a British man. Would we like to join them to split the cost of hiring a guide? “Sounds good to us,” we say, and off we go.
Monte Alban rises 400 metres above the valley floor. Strangely, it sits on a flattened mountain top. “How did that come to be?” we ask our guide. Interestingly, the Zapotec who inhabited Monte Alban from 500 BCE to 800 CE literally moved mountains to create the site. The main plaza would have required moving tons of earth — 200,000 cubic metres of rock and earth to create the gigantic 17-hectare plateau. Sophisticated drainage systems were installed to prevent erosion in the rainy season. And all without modern machinery — every stone moved by human hands. Local sedimentary rock enabled the Zapotecs to build temples, homes, and public buildings, thereby expanding their empire.
The choice of this location reflects the ingenuity of the Zapotecs. The site’s height offered unobstructed views of the flat countryside surrounding Monte Alban. Approaching enemies could be spotted before they became a threat. They could also monitor trade routes, subjugate communities to pay for safe passage, forge alliances through both warfare and diplomacy, and ensure their continued supremacy in the ancient world. Their influence pervaded, molding the cultural practices of neighbouring tribes.
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Inscriptions found on many stone monuments dating back 2000 years offer evidence of writing. Pictographic and phonetic elements were combined to create a complex method of information sharing. The writing even included abstract concepts — all proof that the Zapotecs had created one of the world’s earliest forms of writing.
The grand capital of Monte Alban flourished for an astonishing thirteen centuries. Then, for reasons still not known, its abandonment began. It’s theorized that resource depletion, such as intensive agriculture, along with changing ecological challenges, led to the Zapotecs eventual downfall.
Saying goodbye to our guide and temporary companions, we board the bus back to Oaxaca, our minds swirling to comprehend the monumental achievements and sophistication of this ancient civilization that created Monte Alban centuries ago.
Back in Oaxaca, we make plans to visit the Tlacolula Sunday Market the next day. About an hour away by bus, it’s the largest and oldest open-air market in Oaxaca.
For us, getting places is often half the adventure. We hail a cab to the bus station early the following morning, but there’s almost no one there when we arrive and the cavernous station is so quiet we hear our footsteps echo. Its multiple bus bays are confusing and there are no signs indicating where to board the bus to Tlacolula. After wandering around lost, a helpful gentleman spots us and guides us to the right bus bay. Helpful strangers are always guideposts on our journeys. We wouldn’t be able to do it without them.
We’re the first people on the bus, but not for long, as we make many stops in the city to pick up passengers before driving through dry flatlands planted with corn and agave. One passenger, a friend of the driver, sits in the front window chatting to us, heedless of the danger of sitting on the dash of a moving bus.
To say the market was bustling would be an understatement. And it is large, so large in fact that we don’t cover the entire area. Today, as in pre-Hispanic times, indigenous groups come here with their goods — everything from textiles and pottery to fresh fruits and vegetables. With the tourist traffic, artisanal crafts are popular: colourful scarves, pottery, and alebrijes, intricately painted wooden animals. I’m tempted, but stop myself. We have no room left in our home for more mementos.
The one temptation we both give into is trying barbacoa, which we later learn is the Spanish word from which the English word barbeque is derived. This traditional soup, made with barbecued goat or lamb with the bone left in, is simmered for hours and a flavourful broth is poured over the top when it’s served. Garnished with fresh tortillas, it’s a culinary treat.
Before leaving the market, we visit the baroque cathedral of Santa María de la Asunción, a 16th-century Dominican architectural jewel. It’s lucky timing — mass has just finished, and we’re able to sit inside just soaking up the ambiance of the ornate interior. Intricate 24-carat gold-leaf ornamentation, ancient mirrors, exquisite baroque carvings and detailed plaster reliefs all add to its opulence.
Another stroll through a different area of the market and we’re ready to head back to Oaxaca. It’s almost dinner time when we return — time to peruse the menus of the many restaurants. We’re both foodies, and it’s almost an impossible choice. Food in Oaxaca is a gastronomical delight. Oaxaca is known for its tlayuda, a large, crunchy corn tortilla layered first with black bean sauce and quesillo, a stringy cheese from Oaxaca, and then several ingredients such as tomato, avocado, cabbage, or various meats.
Memelas, more of a snack food, are made with a thicker corn tortilla and topped with salsa and sometimes chorizo or egg. But what really sparks our taste buds are the several different moles, all made with complex chili-based sauces, usually served over chicken, pork, turkey, or vegetables, the flavours melting into layered tastes. We try to bring some back to Canada, but unbeknownst to us, it's prohibited and confiscated by customs.
Like its mole, Oaxaca itself is layered with different flavours: history, national treasures, a rich culture and hospitality. Oaxaca continues to cultivate its own identity, protecting its diverse indigenous heritage, folk art and archeological treasures.
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